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After work on a Friday, Peter O’Hearne and I took a 50-some mile dirt road drive. He had guided fly fishing clients on the Flathead River earlier in the day for Lakestream Fly Shop (https://www.lakestreamflyshop.com/). His wife Jess would join us in a separate vehicle after she got off work. We were headed to Spotted Bear, the Bob Marshall Wilderness, Great Bear Wilderness and the South Fork of the Flathead River to set up camp for a three day weekend, two night encampment and two days floating this remote fork of the fabled Flathead. A week later I would raft the Flathead’s Middle Fork with friends Mary and Dennis. Last year on Father’s Day weekend, I rafted the Flathead’s North Fork with them and other friends. The North and Middle Forks I’ve rafted many times, but never the South Fork. I would now complete the Flathead Trilogy.
The dusty bumpy drive is not for the faint of heart, but it avoids a lot of weekenders who choose paved roads and closer destinations. We traveled the east side of Hungry Horse Reservoir going in and we would travel the west side going out. Montanans have no fear in driving fast on back roads, so be extra vigilant when rounding curves. Stick to your side of the road! We made good time in the late mid-July 2026 heat. Our intended Spotted Bear campsite was not available because of Forest Service work on the site, so we made our way to the nearby Diamond R Guest Ranch along the high banks of the Spotted Bear River. Peter introduced me to a couple of his fly fishing guide buddies. We had a couple of cool ones and waited for Jess. We decided to camp at the wilderness airport camp at an upper bank along the South Fork. The Flathead’s South Fork is designated a Wild and Scenic River. |
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Meadow Creek Gorge |
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The Diamond R (https://www.diamondrranchmt.com/) is a sweet spot in beautiful remote country, bordering the Bob (Bob Marshall Wilderness) and Great Bear Wilderness with access to back country explorations second to none in the Lower Forty Eight States. It is a landscape that offers hiking, rafting, horse packing, kayaking, hunting, photography, fishing, wildlife, solitude, remoteness. The Diamond R Guest Ranch rents out ten cabins, each unique in their own right. The view of the Spotted Bear River from the Diamond deck is worth a stay or even just a visit. It’s a great setting for enjoying adult and children's beverages along with specialty menu offerings each day of the week, including prime rib Saturdays, fish Fridays, and taco Tuesdays. The kitchen is open 3 till 9 pm seven days a week through Oct. 15. There is live music every Saturday. Visiting the Diamond R is like being in the company of an old friend. Their Google Reviews are all 5 Star. |
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Jess and Peter |
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Bob Marshall Wilderness |
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Fly Fishing for Westslope Cutthroat |
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After leaving Diamond R, we made our way to our camp. While I set up my tent and the kitchen, Peter and Jess traveled to Cedar Flats where, with help from two other fly fishing guide friends, they took the raft down to the river, a hike of a quarter mile. I had dinner ready for them when they returned. We had an evening fire, then settled in to our respective camps. All food items were secured in Peter’s pickup, as this is grizzly and black bear country.
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Fly Fishing for Westslope Cutthroat |
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After a hearty breakfast the following morning, we made our way to the raft departure area, carrying with us our fly fishing gear and food and beverage for the day. The other two raft outfitters were there. They left first and we did not see them nor any other rafts for the entire day. It was a true wilderness rafting experience through remote, divine, achingly beautiful country. As the weather was warm, Jess and Peter took a quick swim at the first large boulder area. The purity and clarity of the water was exemplary, as were the rock formations during our passage, with patinas and mixes of blue, orange, red, yellow, gray, white, saffron, pewter, magenta, cyan, and black. Small water cascades and spring trickles entered the river around almost every bend. The fishing for west-slope cutthroat was good. We used barbless hooks and released all back to the river.
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Peter at Meadow Creek Gorge Bridge |
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Peter takes a swim |
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Just below where the Spotted Bear River enters the South Fork, we ended the day, and secured the raft and the large cooler on shore. We hiked up to the campground where Jess had left her car. She drove us to Peter’s pickup at Cedar Flats, then she drove back to their Columbia Falls home. Peter and I drove up to the Meadow Creek Gorge Bridge area and hiked across the bridge, marveling in the views of the deep chiseled gorge. This area is the main take off point to the Bob Marshall Wilderness. Hikers and horse packers use this as their starting point. Many vehicles were in the parking lot.
Once back at camp, we were treated to a full double rainbow in the airport area. Pack horses—finished with their day’s work—grazed and frolicked in the earthen back country airport meadow of wildflowers. Only one plane was parked and tethered. We enjoyed a lovely steak/veggie dinner with a fire and a spot of excellent bourbon. We slept like spring lambs.
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South Fork Flathead River |
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Day Two on the River
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Airport Camp |
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South Fork Fly Fishing |
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Airport Camp |
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Little fisherman |
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We had a leisurely morning, broke down camp, and made our way to the put-in. We had paid Diamond R $40 to shuttle the vehicle to our take-out at Log Landing on Hungry Horse Reservoir. Several fly fishing guides with their clients along with private rafters were on this busier stretch of the river. It was an excellent fishing day with larger cutthroats. Peter did an excellent job navigating the rapids. Several times, we anchored the raft and fly fished from the bank or a secure wading place. Once we hit Hungry Horse Reservoir, Peter utilized his muscular 6-7 frame to oar a mile over still water. We loaded the raft and made our way back to C Falls. We saw one beautiful lone black bear beside the road. Road traffic was sparse. The beauty and solace of the river was still singing in our hearts.
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South Fork Fly Fishing |
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South Fork Suspension Bridge |
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Hungry Horse Reservoir |
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Great Bear Wilderness |
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Important Info:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Fork_Flathead_River
https://www.flyfisherman.com/editorial/the-south-fork-of-the-flathead-river/152358
https://supmontana.com/places-to-paddle/south-fork-flathead/
https://www.mountaineers.org/activities/routes-places/the-flathead-river-system
https://www.fs.usda.gov/r01/flathead/recreation/wild-scenic-rivers
https://www.lakestreamflyshop.com/
https://www.diamondrranchmt.com/
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
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Larry Turner is a productive, respected regional, national and international photographer/writer. His work has appeared in countless magazines and books, including Browntrout and Avalanche Publishers' calendars and books, American Heritage, National Geographic Traveler, Travel and Leisure, Sunset, Range Magazine (29 covers), The Atlantic and many others. He is the co-author of the book Mount Shasta Reflections, and his photographs have appeared on covers of many books and magazines. He is an active skier, gardener, fly fisherman, and adventurer. His greatest love is spending time with his son Steen, Chef de Cuisine at Buchanan's Chop House (Whitefish). Click for Larry's Facebook page. |
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