Fish return to Klamath River tributaries Courtesy Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife

The fish were jumping – and so were we. Jumping for joy!

After all, what we were seeing – large numbers of spawning Chinook salmon in Spencer Creek, a tributary of the Klamath River – hadn’t been seen in more than 100 years.

The Klamath River, which stretches 263 miles from Upper Klamath Lake in Klamath Falls, Oregon, through far northern California to Requa, where it meets the Pacific Ocean, is alive again. Following the removal of four hydroelectric dams in 2024, Chinook, steelhead, trout, lamprey and other species are now being seen again.

	Salmon fall run on Spencer Creek Photo courtesy Niel Barrett		Salmon fall run on Klamath River Photo courtesy Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife

Even the most optimistic fish biologists have been awed by the unexpectedly speedy returns. Most notable are the large runs of fall Chinook. Biologists have been documenting the fish passing ladders at the two remaining dams – Keno and Link River – and making their way 20 miles north on Upper Klamath Lake to such tributaries as the Wood, Williamson and Sprague rivers. Sightings have also been reported in the Lower Klamath National Wildlife Refuge.

The speedy return is a true surprise.

“I don’t think anyone expected hundreds of fall Chinook to come into Oregon,” Mark Hereford, a fisheries biologist with the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife, told me. “It’s very exciting.”

Tribes that live along the river – the Hoopa, Karuk, and Yurok - and its tributaries, the Klamath Tribes - are also jubilant.

	Chinook on Salmon River Photo courtesy Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife		Salmon run on Klamath River Photo courtesy Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife

The excitement and impact of the dam removals and surprisingly speedy return of the salmon is being felt worldwide. Groups from several countries, including New Zealand and China, are studying the impact of dam removals – and of not allowing the construction of new dams – on native fish populations. In October friends and I had an unplanned meeting with a delegation of scientists from Mongolia, home of the largest salmonids, who were spending three days visiting river sites in the U.S.

The return of the Chinook is luring viewers.

Oregon Fish and Wildlife fisheries biologist Mark Hereford
tells Mongolian scientists about salmon sightings.
Photo courtesy Gary Vequest

Salmon-viewing is becoming a pastime at tributaries like Spencer Creek, located south of Klamath Falls near the community of Keno. It’s not unusual to see several vehicles at a parking area about a mile upstream from where the creek feeds into the Klamath.

During a recent walk along the impromptu trail that borders the creek, a walk I’ve previously taken, my wife, Liane, and I were dazzled by the numbers and size of the salmon. Along the way we met several other salmon stalkers, including families with excited children, and Dr. Karl Wenner, a retired orthopedic surgeon and active conservation advocate. From the area where Spencer Creek pours into the Klamath back to the parking lot, a distance of about a mile, Karl counted Chinook. Even though some areas of the creek were impenetrable because of thick vegetation, Karl tallied 202.

We both found dead salmon. (They die after spawning.) Mine weighed about 15 pounds and was more than 2 feet long, while his was even longer and weighed at least 20 pounds.

	Chinook held by Karl Wenner Photo courtesy Liane Venzke		Salmon after spawning Photo courtesy Dan Hawkes

Raft trips are being offered for those wanting to witness this new phenomenon of a restored river up close and personal.

	Upper Klamath camping Photo courtesy Larry Turner		Upper Klamath River rafting  Photo courtesy Larry Turner

While people are excited about seeing the return of the salmon, others are looking forward to opportunities to “experience a transformed river landscape” a different way - on guided raft trips. Outfitters are offering a variety of river excursions, some for a day, others for a night or more, on sections the “new Klamath.”

	Evening camp  Photo courtesy Larry Turner		Upper Klamath night sky  Photo courtesy Larry Turner

In 2022, photographer friend Larry Turner and I were among a group that took a three-day trip on the Klamath from below the then-John C. Boyle Dam to where the river met the former Copco Dam. We wanted to see the river before the dams were removed. We had a wonderful time – from paddling rafts through Class IV and V rapids to kayaking in “rubber duckies” in less turbulent sections. At overnight camps we savored star-filled night skies after gawking at soaring eagles, osprey and waterfowl. (See “Thrills – But No Spills,” in the July/August 2022 High On Adventure.)

Before the removal of the Boyle dam, whitewater trips were timed because of the predictable, timed releases of water. But now with the river flowing freely, timing trips with seasonal water flows becomes critical. Some Upper Klamath trips will be offered in April and May to take advantage of big spring river flows. Other outings, including multi-night trips, are planned from June through September. For more information visit the websites listed below for Momentum River Expeditions, Noah’s River Adventures, and Indio Creek Outfitters.

The return of the salmon, steelhead and other species is also impacting anglers. For now, recreational fishing for salmon and steelhead is not allowed in the Klamath River in Oregon. To protect young and adult steelhead from being harvested, the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife has also created a “slot limit” for rainbow trout, which allows anglers to keep one fish between 12 and 15 inches. While walking along Spencer Creek we met a uniformed Oregon State Police officer who periodically patrols it and other tributaries to thwart illegal poaching. Check with the Oregon and California Departments of Fish and Wildlife for details and updates.

People who plan to take a river trip or visit Klamath River tributaries over the next several months are reminded that while watching spawning salmon is an exciting experience, they are asked to not disturb them. The salmon make their nests, or redds, in gravel, often in relatively shallow water. Viewing should be made from open areas along the tributaries.

River trips along the Klamath River will be happening soon. But for now appreciating the amazing return of the salmon is best done along the Klamath’s tributaries. Seeing the fish is a surprisingly thrilling experience.

Seeing is believing – the salmon are returning.

Planning a Raft Trip

For information on Klamath River rafting/inflatable kayaking trips sources include Momentum River Expeditions at https://momentumriverexpeditions.com/trip/upper-klamath-rafting-safari, 541-488-2525; Indigo Creek Outfitters at indigocreekoutfitters.com, 541-708-6252; and Noahs River Adventures at https://noahsrafting.com/adventures/klamath-irongate-scenic-float/. 541-488-2811.

About the Author

Lee Juillerat is a semi-retired writer-photographer who lives in Southern Oregon. Along with stories for High On Adventure and newspapers and magazines, he is the author of books about Crater Lake National and Lava Beds National Monument. His book, “Ranchers and Ranching: Cowboy Country Yesterday and Today,” includes stories and photos of more than 300 people. He can be contacted at 337lee337@charter.net.